Siding Nail Screw Or It
I have talked to a number of people about this project. Some say to use a nail gun and nail the siding in with stainless steel nails or masonry nails. Support siding along its length when cutting. Several pieces may be stacked and cut at the same time. Studs must be minimum 33 mil (20ga) to use pin fasteners with fiber cement siding. See tool and fastener selection guide below. If installing lap siding, will the fastener pattern be blind nailed or face nailed?
Section 1405.18 and in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. Plastic cap nails are excellent for tar paper, nailing up curtain, etc. Available by the pound or by the box. These strips, installed at the bottom, will make your first row of siding angle out to match the rest of the rows. Use 6d or 8d galvanized or stainless siding nails and install a single nail about 1-in. The nails you choose must be weatherproof and long enough to prevent the siding from pulling out. Maze bulk & collated stick nails are “the right nails for the job”! Maze bulk & collated stick nails are “the right nails for the job”!
This Old House general contractor Tom Silva shares his secrets for working with fiber-cement siding. (See below for a shopping …Bostitch® Coil Pneumatic Siding Nailer at Menards – Masonry Siding Nail
Keep it dry until it has been installed. A carbide tipped scoring knife lasts much longer than a standard utility knife blade. Use hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel nails. Use roofing nails for blind nailing and siding nails for face nailing. This usually occurs on the bottom rows of siding near the ground, or on siding that adjoins a roof or chimney. Cut the fiber cement siding to length (wear approved dust protection). First, pry the damaged pieces off the wall using a crowbar. Fiber cement siding is a great replacement because it easily matches hardboard profiles, but it won’t ever rot or be eaten by termites.
What have y’all done, if you could have done it differently, would you?
What is the total thickness of material being fastened?
Which siding product is being installed, lap siding, panel products or trim?
The last 2 inches (51 mm) of each wire leg shall have a right-angle bend. There shall be not less than a 0.1055-inch (2.68 mm) zinc-coated or nonmetallic coated wire, or approved equal, attached to the stud with not smaller than an 8d (0.120 in.
But with fiber cement, a resilient mix of wood pulp and portland cement, you get all four. Yet fiber cement goes for just a fraction of the cost of these other materials. Available in different paint colors to match poplar fiber cement siding colors. Nailing is one of the most important aspects. When you want the classic look of wood siding coupled with lifetime durability, fiberboard cement siding may well be your best choice. Install these fragile starter strips with a 15-gauge trim gun. Nail lengths should be chosen so they penetrate a minimum of 1-1/4 in. Fastener heads should be snugged up against the siding, not driven into the surface. Also, the trim nails look better where nails will be exposed, especially on a prefinished corner board. Fit and slide paper behind the window trim. Providing the sheathing is at least 1/2 inch thick, you can nail siding to it with 5d nails, which are 1 3/4 inches long.
Aerico® 90 will fasten fiber cement siding to concrete masonry units. Hardie panels (48 x 98) rather than lapped boards for a more contemporary look. I didn’t realize that you could hide the nails by putting them at the top instead of at the bottom. Can screws be utilized for attachment to prevent inside drywall damage caused by hammering?
Will the siding provide the structural integrity needed. There are nos studs in between, just 1/2 plywood as sheathing. I am thinking of nailing it straight to the plywood and the poles. We need to put up plywood over the windows. If we put screw in it won’t it crack?
What do we use to put the plywood up that won’t hurt the hardiplank siding? What caulking will adhere to the cement board and the black house wrap and cement porch landing that the post is on?
Any concerns with this or with rain or hosing down the posts for cleaning. I nail gun straight thru the board and the cement board into the stud?
The vinyl will fade, if it is anything but white and get brittle and get waves in it. I have went to cement lap siding. I think he caulked over the butt seams of the lap siding. I have a case in getting it replaced or installed correctly? I want to make the bed a raised bed using a small rock wall to hold the soil. I mound the soil up against the cement board 6-8 inches high?
I layer plastic moisture barrier then cement board like in a shower or some other product? The squirrels have also gnawed the plastic knobs on the gas grill. All existing boards have been blind nailed. I remove the damaged boards without ruining the other siding that does not need to be replaced?
I replace them with new ones, blind nailing them into place? Squirrels don’t like chewing on concrete! We want to put your cement fiber siding right on top of the wood siding. I hideyi the nail heads, will finishing nails work because they have a little head. I heard you should caulk each board. How can 1 piece be replaced when it was blind nailed without taking off the many pieces above it? Just apply directly on top of the old wood plants. Cut the bottom siding plank to align with the bottom wood board so all of the siding overlaps. The cement doard was face nailed and most of the nail heads are not flush. I am concerned that the nails will rust and will deteriorate. The nails are resistant to being set. Attempt at setting resulted in damage to drywall inside the house. I have been told that there is glue on the nails that procludes removal or setting of the nails. Stacked flat and covered, but are wet between planks. I have inspected the joints and it appears that they were not caulked or it has fallen out due to contraction or expansion.
I hide the nails on the last (top) row of siding? It might be possible to trim the existing siding back with a circular saw, if you’re careful not to cut through the flashing behind it.
We recently noticed that where the dormers protrude from the roof the cement board siding is deteriorating at the area where the siding butts up against the asphalt shingles.
Ace 6D Masonry Steel Nail Flat Tapered 5 lb
Should the siding butt against the shingles or should there have been some type of board or flashing used?
We will have to tear off the cement board siding and replace it, and would like to know how to correctly remedy this. I could get away with using 1” nails instead since all nails are going directly into the wood walls of the house.
A few of the lower pieces blew off and i was wonder if there is any other way to ensure this does happen again? There is no insulation in the outer walls on the first floor, but insulation on the second floor. I insulate the bottom walls with blow in foam or is it not worth the cost due to minimal leakage with heat?
I can’t stress it enough, do not let the dust get in your lungs! I would replace it before installing siding. Drive the nailheads snug against the fiber cement board. Then cut and nail the first course of siding along the layout line. This strip will tip the first piece of siding to the proper angle. If you go this route, practice first to make sure the nailheads will be set flush. The top course should be at least two-thirds the width of the lower courses. Transfer the layout marks to the wall and snap chalk lines. Peel away the plastic after the board has been fastened to the wall. It’s easy to work with and cheap, and it isn’t noticeable if a seam happens to open up a little. This is to allow any water that may have gotten behind the siding to weep out. The top trim board will also need its own drip cap and 1/4-in. Treat the tops of doors the same way. These tools not only create the proper reveal (the part of the siding that shows) between rows but also actually hold the planks in place while you nail.
Here are some facts to consider when making your decision. The color on a prefinished product won’t fade nearly as fast. But the best part of using a prefinished product is that after installation, you’re done and not faced with painting an entire house. Tons of fiber cement cutting gadgets are available, but most jobs can be handled with just a steady eye and a standard circular saw fitted with a fiber cement blade.
They’re cheaper and easy to install, and you can cut the proper-size hole in a plastic mounting block with a utility knife or a snips.
If the cut edge is part of a butt joint in the middle of the wall, it needs to be painted (try to use factory edges on all butt joints).
Check with your specific manufacturer before you start. It’s a pain to work around, but it helps if you don’t nail the flashing tight until you have your siding cut to size.
Cut along the line with a jigsaw fitted with a carbide grit blade. Notch to go around windows and doors. These nailheads will be exposed, but the paint will cover them. For pipes, electrical entries and similar fixtures, fit the siding as tightly as possible and then seal with a polyurethane caulk or non-hardening electrician’s putty.
Again, these nailheads will be exposed. Finish-coat with a 100 percent acrylic latex paint. Be sure the bottom edge of the paper laps on top of the lower course of siding. Check joints every few years and recaulk as needed. There isn’t an easy equation for shingles, so it’s best to have your supplier do the math. Available in both clapboards and shingle strips, it averages about 75 cents per square foot. A warm brown finish gives fiber-cement shingles the look of wood, but without the maintenance. Decorative fish-scale shingles beautifully highlight a gable end. Smooth fiber-cement panels edged with trim are a low-cost alternative to stucco. Panels molded to look like stacked stone interlock to keep out water and hide the seams. But with fiber cement, a resilient mix of wood pulp and portland cement, you get all four. Yet fiber cement goes for just a fraction of the cost of these other materials. The basic recipe has just four ingredients. Wherever trim and siding meet, there should be a 1/8-inch gap, concealed with caulk. That’s akin to everyone telling you a lie makes that lie a truth. The nail shank diameter should be 1/8 in. This will permit expansion and contraction as well as prevent dimpling, which causes waves in siding. Never pull siding taut when nailing. Siding panels should be nailed 12 in. The build-up of old caulking interferes with the positioning of new trim for the siding. Window sill extension may be cut off, so new trim can be installed flush with the window casing. This will give you more room to work. Snap chalk line and repeat same procedure around entire house.2. Drive nails to remove excessive play in starter, but do not nail tightly restricting movement. If vinyl soffit is to be installed, allow proper distance below the underside of eaves for soffit installation accessories (which vary according to the accessory used).
Nail them to the adjoining walls, beginning at the top, placing nails at the top of the uppermost nailing slots, allowing the posts to hang on these nails.
This will allow vertical expansion of the corner posts. Cut the post long enough to extend past the bottom of the starter strip by 3/4 in. Attach the posts by placing a nail in the top of the upper slot on each side. The rest of the nails should be placed in the center of the slots, 8 in. This allows for expansion and contraction to occur at the bottom. Bend the flaps to close off the post. Make this panel extend on both sides of the window. Holding the siding panel under the window, mark the width of the opening on the panel allowing 1/4 in. Next, lock a scrap piece of siding into the panel below, butting against the window. Measure both sides of the window opening this way. Using the snap-lock punch, punch the panel 1/4 in. The resulting raised lugs should face outward and will snap into undersill trim.17. Measure and cut panel in the same manner detailed in step 14 but cut lower portion instead of top. More than one length of undersill trim may be required under the eave and will need to be spliced.19. To determine how much of the top panel must be cut off, measure the distance between the top of under-sill trim and the lock of the panel below, then deduct 1/4 in.
The panel will no longer have a nailing strip after cutting [fig. Using snap-lock punch tool, punch the panel on top of this line every 6 in. To cut panels on proper angle, use two scrap pieces of siding to make a pattern for cutting. Then mark a line on bottom piece and cut. Using a level, make pencil marks on the wall, parallel with the lower edge of wood fascia board at the end of each wall.
From these marks, measure up 7/8 in. Intermediate nailing supports should be installed on eaves over 16 in. Then cut soffit panels according to these dimensions to allow 1/4 in. Use solid panels, and for areas where ventilation is required, use perforated soffit. Lining the panel up correctly, nail the panel to the existing soffit through the nailing hem. Fit the panels together snugly to protect against misalignment. Use a snap-lock punch tool on the fascia panel to punch out raised slots every 6 in. Mark vertical centerline on back cut. The corner cap is then hooked onto the bottom ends of the fascia, and the top is snapped into place in undersill trim [figs.
Wider width sidings require blind (roofing) nails.
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