Parapet Cap

Parapet Cap. Roof Mortar Joints Metal
However, even though parapet walls perform a number of important functions, they are moisture management headaches!

On top of this, parapet walls have a rather rough life since they are subjected to wind, dramatic temperature changes, moisture from three sides and roof system stresses.

BULLNOZE Parapet Wall Coping

Someone also did some horrible brick face as lipstick up to the window tops under the awnings. This concerns me because whether water is bleeding down the back of the walls from the roof or the front mortar joints it has to be collection on the window tops.

Horton played defense on that team long before he got into the donut business. Parapet Wall Details – Masonry Parapet Cap

Parapet Cap. Roof Mortar Joints Metal

The copper coping is bent down 4″ on both sides of the wall at an angle of 90 degrees. Corrosion resistant, stainless steel springs are factory attached to the anchor clips and provide long-term, positive spring loading. Kynar 500® finish warranty is included on coil-coated standard colors. Italian parapetto (parare “to cover/defend” and petto “breast”). Parapets were originally used to defend buildings from military attack, but today they are primarily used as guard rails and to prevent the spread of fires.

Panelled parapets are ornamented by a series of panels, either oblong or square, and more or less enriched, but not perforated. But the roof slopes from the back of the building to the front and a few scuppers take the run off. The roof for the most part is okay, torch down…. So we can be getting a water down the walls. At the heads of the windows, install a flashing behind the mesh and stucco to make sure water is not getting in there. Yes of course but does that pretty much mean the mortar has to be well repaired prior anyway or can it be done all at the same time.

It was wrapped right onto the top concrete coping cap. As the construction industry’s need for more economical wall systems came about, cavity wall and thin veneer stud walls became the norm, and with the changing construction details came new and unexpected challenges.

Make sure that there is a waterproof membrane under the coping. Metal and stone copings leak at joints. Make sure there is a waterproof membrane under the coping.

The strip can be grouted in, or held by lead wedges and sealed. The copper coping cover is locked over the cleat to form a drip. The coping cover is locked onto the upper edge of the counterflashing. The counterflashing at the roof side of the coping is nailed to the wood blocking. This cleat is bent down over front face of the coping. Through-wall flashing is installed in the new wall, then bent down to lap the base flashing and cleats. Counterflashing is inserted into the reglet and held by lead wedges. This cover, in turn, laps over base flashing which is cleated to the roof deck or a nailing strip. Building details that are not structurally sound cannot be maintained to manage moisture. What is less obvious is that they can, over time, deform various types of metal coping. In many cases this change in shape results in a concave cupping of the top of the metal, this creates a ponding configuration in the coping.

This added movement could deform seams in the metal coping creating openings in the waterproof system. These environmental stressors can also negatively impact other materials (natural stone, manmade stone, bell tolls, etc.) that are used to create coping. This occurs when the overall slope of the parapet is greater than the slope on the top surface of the parapet coping. Structurally stable parapet wall; a structurally unstable construction detail cannot be successfully maintained. You keep the connecting detail very flexible. Someone also did some horrible brick face as lipstick up to the window tops under the awnings. If you drill weep holes they must be on a slight upward angle and may allow some water to rest on the lintels still.

Since you have water sitting behind the brick, these weep holes would be a good idea to let some air into the cavity behind the brick.

Generally there should be a 2-4.5″ gap there unless the masons were sloppy and filled it with too much mortar. On top it can be rather expensive but a breathable sealer as you have mentioned would be great to fill any pin holes in the mortar joints and provide hydrophobic actions to the brick and mortar.

You can also see how above the roof line the parapet is absorbing water and pushing anything adhered off the wall. I am trying to guide through the problems biggest to smallest. You will hear the difference between a good brick and a bad brick. We see a lot of masonry problems that are a result of faulty roofs. Have no idea other than the masonry above is part of a concern. I believe it should have been set back to the wood framing. Water could be finding its way in from the roof too. The brick is in okay condition, if you zoom in you will see areas of missing mortar. I respect and after a week he still cant get there for another week. Not even discuss the problem and evaluate repair solutions. Roofing and inside parapet wall? The masonry is getting wet and nothing is adhering to the parapet. The gypsum sheathing is screwed to the metal deck. This insulation should be screwed down to the metal deck. This coverboard is also screwed down to the metal deck. First, it is a hygric buffer that reduces roof membrane blistering. Second, and most important to our story, is that its function is to transfer the stresses of the primary roof membrane to the metal deck.

Figure 12a shows how the “old timers” did it—wood blocking and a cant anchored to the structural deck. As much as it pains this “old timer” to say this, with the newer more dimensionally stable membranes the “new pups” have it more right.

Use a more dimensionally stable membrane and then let things move when they have to. The spray foam is supported by horizontal bridging or metal blocking.

Parapet Walls By Stavros’ Method Of Terra Cotta Camelback Copings And Precast Coping Stones

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