Fireplace How Long Will Cord Of Firewood Last
American wood products manufacturers.
What does carbon neutral mean?
The rectangular shape provides more efficient loading of wood stoves. Is the heater desired for supplemental heat or as the sole source of heat?
Are the quantitative factors (efficiency and economics) most important or are the qualitative factors (aesthetics, desire for radiant heat, etc.) also important? If you plan to build a house with efficient wood heating in mind, make plans to allow for a central wood stove location so heat can radiate throughout, or plan for hot air ducting or hot water piping from a woodfired furnace.
Base your judgments of the heating capacities of wood stoves or furnaces on experience rather than just the dealer’s statements or manufacturer’s claims. Are they a reasonable alternative to firewood and do they pollute more or less?
Even if you are strong and can swing an axe and a 10-pound maul over your head, it may be difficult to split these pieces.
Using artificial firelogs is a reasonable alternative to burning real firewood. This is about half the cordwood of a conventional metal woodstove. A face cord or stove cord is 400 mm (16″) x 1.2 m (4′) x 2.4 m (8′). It just seems like a person could get hurt really bad, really fast with a chainsaw. We will also supply ½ “loose” cords, a cubic yard scoop or a 30 piece stack.
Now find a fairly open airspace to stack it for air drying.
Here’s a hint for easy and foolproof cross tying. Hint number two will save some time as well. In fact a properly managed woodlot can be a healthier ecosystem than an untended lot. That’s a very rough rule – the sustainability varies greatly with the species. They’re cheaper to build, easier to install, and are often considered more convenient. It’s important to have a good storage system for firewood; otherwise it will rot before you can use it. In contrast, a weekend-only fire builder can likely get by on as little as a half-cord. If your wood is cut 6 months to a year in advance and properly stored, the sun and wind will do the job for free.
These tubes will stay full of water for years even after a tree is dead. Green wood on the other hand is very heavy, the ends look fresher, and it tends to make a dull “thud” when struck. A standard cord of firewood is 128 cubic feet of wood, generally measured as a pile 8 feet long by 4 feet tall by 4 feet deep.
Please list all details that you care to. However, if you’re collecting your own wood, it’s crucial that you don’t burn any that’s endangered.
What makes some types of firewood better for burning than others?
The volume of one cord of wood is 128 cubic feet of stacked wood. What is a “rick” or “face cord” of wood? We’d have been a little chilly otherwise.
When a tree is felled, the slow process of drying begins, and the free water is the first to evaporate. They also blacken the glass windows of your wood-burning appliances and produce a lot of blue-gray smoke, fouling your house and annoying your neighbors.
How we’ve heated our house on 1 cord a year for the last 34 years: Tips for burning firewood in a fireplace or stove to efficiently …Wood Bricks Supplier – Masonry Fireplace How Long Will Cord Of Firewood Last
The needles are about a half inch long, blunt tipped, stiff, often with fine red hairs present on twig.
Consider the case where you have your own tools for cutting wood and you have a pickup truck to haul it. The pickup will haul 1/ 2 cord of wood when it is well stacked. You plan to cut the season’s requirement mentioned above (6.5 cords).
Also, many people may have wood on their own land or have free access to wood, eliminating that charge. Assume the lifetime for each of the heaters to be 15 years when maintained properly. If the oil furnace initial cost were more or the wood stove were less, the annual savings by using wood would not have to be as great.
I have about 20-40 cords stacked up in my yard, most of it oak and hickory and gum. We heated our 5300 sq ft house 100% with wood from 1975 till 2003. Waterwall fireplace and whole house hot water and forced air distribution, and hot water heater preheat.
Yep, already had all the tools, truck, etc.
Our neighbors are 78 and 81 and still cut, burn, cook, and do pulp for their taxes. Make your operation as efficent as possible. You will have less creosote build up that way. As a last consideration, if you are renting only for one year, when you move you’ll probably have to remove from the property any wood you don’t use.
I burn good wood in a small-ish stove with the damper opening pretty small for best results. If you do have an old leaky stove, be prepared with 6-8 cords of dry seasoned firewood. If the winter is cold and long you could likely need more than six. You’ll also burn inefficiently if you’ve never used a stove before. If you plan on collecting your own, firewood usually has to be seasoned over a year or more. Here’s the scoop on selecting the right firewood for your needs and how to store it through the year.
Softwoods like pine may be cheap and abundant, but they burn very quickly and you may find yourself hauling heavy loads of wood to and fro more often than you’d like.
How do you know when your firewood has been properly seasoned?
Split them no more than 16 inches long, and chop the remaining end into several smaller pieces to use as kindling.
If you don’t have a covered woodshed or storage area, store your firewood with the bark side of the log on top. You can also lay a large tarp over the wood pile to protect it over winter; keep it weighed down on top with stones or bricks, but don’t fully cover the pile on all sides as you want to keep it ventilated.
Cut or buy your wood one year before your burn it, and store it under metal roofing or in a woodshed. That’s good for your pocketbook and good for the planet.
Using fire wood where it makes sense is one such tool and as such, it should employed at every possible opportunity.
While there are more and more interesting examples of energy efficient homes popping up all the time the majority of these buildings apparently serve very few individuals per building.
and yes burning wood should be a choice for some not all. R value masonry and metal chimneys which penetrate the building envelope (both heating and cooling penalties depending on the season); convective air currents arising from temperature differentials inside large chimneys; metal pipe air intakes which can be quite difficult to insulate, channeling cold into the envelope 24/7 during heating season; backdrafting through leaky woodstove doors; and so forth.
Surely we can do better than existing typical practice with wood burning appliances in new construction?
Since my grandmother’s day (my grandmother grew up with a wood-burning kitchen stove similar to the one that now sits in my kitchen), here’s how things have improved: 1.
We’ve gone from stoves with leaky doors and seams to airtight stoves.
There are now a few very efficient wood boilers that burn firewood at very high temperatures and store the heat in hot water tanks for homes with hydronic heat distribution systems.
Also, inversion layers can hold smoke close to the earth’s surface, putting people at risk who live far from the source. I agree that “somebody is being adversely affected” whenever wood is burned. One way to improve this situation is to use a “top down” technique, where you light your kindling on top of the larger pieces.
It is counterintuitive, but it works.
Also, users of cast iron stoves should be careful about closing the damper at night. Choking the air supply creates more smoke. After the fire is out, the chimney can be sealed with a gasketed cap to prevent heat loss and air infiltration. Our fuel density has increased exponentially. If you look at the bigger picture, the lines between our technology and our fuel density are largely parallel. Yet we don’t know how to deal with our oil spills. Local water treatment plants cannot process the effluent from these wells. and we don’t know the long term consequences.
One of my college professors stated it well. The beauty of firewood is its simplicity, its long history, the fact that it’s organic and renewable. The only positive side to sight-unseen pollution from electricity generation or other sources may be that it keeps the peace in the neighborhood.
Are artificial logs a good alternative to firewood
Passivhaus is the only green building program that demands ultra low energy consumption to get the certification.
Smoke drifts a long way, much further that just the neighbor’s house. On a cold clear winter day, look down hill as the smoke hugs the earth. This can be an important reducing fossil fuel usage and lowering the net carbon emissions. It is very important to use well seasoned wood for heating. Unseasoned wood contains about 50% water by weight. Where do you live and what are your personal beliefs?
When looking at the environmental impact of burning wood, one can not just look at the fuel itself. Nothing is really as simple as we would sometimes like to make it.
I know the power plant pollutes, there was pollution from the construction of the geo unit. If the gases are not fully burned, they escape as wasted heat and smoke (air pollution) and often condense on a cold chimney as creosote, the fuel for chimney fires.
Contrast this with masonry heaters, with thick masonry walls, which are slow to release their heat and therefore have moderate heat transfer efficiency. They’re also habitat for the many organisms that inhabit the forest. Likewise, thinning a forest is only beneficial if you look at it strictly from a timber production perspective. The fine particulates you mention are being increasingly understood to be an important contributor to global warming through both atmospheric and albedo affects.
and thanks for the informative links.
And, like most forested rural areas, we also feel constantly threatened by the risk of fires during the dry season. People also use the abundant wood resources to heat their homes. We have spent the past decade ascending the energy-efficiency pyramid. We do the wood sustainably and the system works well.
We need super-efficient homes because we have demanded so much of the earth’s resources that we’ve nearly destroyed the ecosystem upon which we depend for our very lives.
We need super-efficient homes with close to zero emissions because our exploitation of the earth’s capital resources (ancient buried hydrocarbons) has allowed our population to grow to unsustainable levels (we are now consuming the equivalent of 1¼ earths and by 2050 it will be 2 earths).
We need super-efficient homes because we choose to live in smaller and smaller family units and “outsource” our children and our elders to institutions.
We need super-efficient homes, in other words, because we have created and choose to maintain a thoroughly dysfunctional civilization based on individual freedom and selfishness, which no amount of “greening” is going to make functional.
First, if we burned oil the way we burn wood, we’d all be dead. It’s the equivalent of burning oil in a barrel. I bet the cherrywood smells wonderful when it burns. I burn ash and red maple(swamp maple), which are both soft, because we only need a little heat. Pinewood is also okay, we have some spruce and pine. In a way that’s great that you have the chimney sweeping program, just hope it’s not too expensive!
Also very interesting about the word light – thanks, hvala.
As for the question of whether you can heat with softwoods the answer is obviously yes. For most of us a cord is 4′ x 4′ x 8′ but in some parts of the country they use face cords which are 4 feet x 8 feet with chunks of wood either 12 inches or 16 inches long.
You must have had a huge yard!
Hilarious about the debates re: firewood diameter, and that they actually [i]count[i] the wood. All wood has pretty much the same calorific value (energy yield per lb or kg, etc.). They are quick to light and burn with a high temperature and bright flame (though they can of course spit a bit so are best burned in a stove).
Larch is very low in some of the tars that can deposit in flues though burned hot, these tars are a source of calories.
I can swear to you that we have never once purchased firewood “by the piece”. The term “face cord” is rarely used in this province and would probably only apply to those folks that buy wood already “junked”(cut into lengths suitable for splitting or burning without further processing), and either take their own truck or trailer to collect the wood or have it delivered.
Of course you can buy bagged wood as well if you are simply using it to burn in a fireplace on special occasions. I ever heard of a seller counting individual pieces of wood. The larger logs represent harder work for the secondary processor as they are more difficult to move around and require in most cases that extra time be spent with splitting.
Burning seasoned softwood causes no concern as long as the fire is prevented from smouldering excessively and you keep the chimney clean at all times.
As for him claiming to have burned 20 cords of wood in one winter; you might be left with the impression that our winters are extreme.
I have to get a truck or trailer to pick it up. We split expenses and did it easier as we both provided labor for each other as friends with a goal.
But there are names that people have adapted to fit their purpose.
I want to get the most wood for my money. But unsplit wood is more solid and easier to stack solid. Cleaning a chimney, easier said than done. I had a coating all the way up my chimney which was about 3/8 thick. Smells nice though and if you get it cheap enough ok for some if you have a small house.
For most efficient woodstoves, that is no more than 6 inches (15 cm) across. A single row exposed to the sun and prevailing winds is best—as the sun heats and evaporates the water from the wood, the wind whisks it away.
Most firewood properly split and stacked takes at least a season to dry properly. I did the longest burn of the winter yesterday. If you look at the “firewood rack” in the first post, you will see two shelves full of firewood. Jocelyn has been carefully tracking our wood use, so she will have the exact numbers. I have ideas about how to improve the efficiency of this. This is just way too warm for wintertime. The extended forecast says we won’t go above freezing in the next nine days and beyond.
So the last fire was yesterday at 10am and the house was at about 74 degrees. Got up this morning around 6 and it is 9 degrees outside and 62 inside.
I think you have probably been asked this many times already), but, why do you have the outside of the mass sided with wood?
There are holes along the bottom and just under the granite top. It works a little different from a cob style.
The standard solution is covering the air intake, but he wants to avoid getting up at night to do this.
So, maybe a spring loaded or weighted flap over the air intake. If you can get a good idea of when the fire burns out, it could be a timed device.
We are planting locust, oak and mulberry – but it will be a long time until we can use that.
Coppice meaning heavy pruning varieties that regrow from the trunk. Paul, keep pushing the efficiency on people and maybe one day they will get it.
The certified stove i am using right now has secondary draft tubes under the smoke shelf to burn the wood smoke. The operating efficiency of older woodstoves aren’t the only problem that contributes to needing greater amounts of wood. The mass of the steel woodstove does get hot to the touch, but not as hot as a full, or even half full, load of cordwood.
I use this trick during the cool nights of spring & fall without driving my wife out of the house. I would have been better off building a 6″x6″ firebox, that maybe it would provide a better long term burn using a smaller amount of wood.
I stopped burning yesterday morning. Garrett is here as part of the bootcamp. I had him start the fire the last few days. Wood use continues to be hardly anything and the house is kept plenty warm.
Or a 200 million dollar advertising campaign. Sisyphus never got the rock to the top.
That covers all the stories of this rmh. I think the choice of an 8-inch system vs. That is just going by the amount you said you used from the picture of the shelf. I am confident there is quite a bit of energy lost out the chimney from the air flowing through it. It beats the tar out of the 4-5 cord woodstove that it replaced.
It is a standard, 3-bedroom double-wide. I have been thinking a lot about the amount of exhaust of a batch box system that is burning far more wood at one time, but is using an 8-inch exhaust.
There are certainly multiple audiences. They make their decisions based on how mush wood they would bring in or buy. and that wood is measured by the cord.
I saw this sentence and my first thought was that it was more than fair that you measured the efficiency of your stove by how much wood you had to cut for it.
When people talk about wood heat, they talk about cords of wood. But this has been a pretty cold week for our winters. Most of the winter will see high temps getting over freezing.
Then, and only then, can we truly know if there’s a difference between burning 5 cords of wood, or 1/4 of a cord. That 1/4 of a cord could be really dense, high energy wood. I should have a little larger stove. Keep cutting – the stuff grows on trees!
Everything from pine to locust is in my wood pile.
Please list all details that you care to. This year 5 cords, two stoves and 350 gallons of oil.
Next year 8 cords, three stoves and less than 100 gallons of oil.
April we used just shy of 5 cord of mostly oak, locust and maple. I had the house built in 1994 so its pretty well insulated.
I undersized the stove so i will also use about a 1/2 tank of oil and 5 cords of wood.
I have a 120 year old house heating 2496 sq feet. There are two sliding glass doors and large window space. We have a propane furnace that we have to use because we will be charged a rental fee on the tank if we don’t use 400 gallons/year.
We run the thermostat at between 62 and 64 for the furnace. I am surprised by how little some are able to burn and keep their houses warm!
Hotblast 1500 also keeps our garage warm. Ohio winters, to jump into a warm car in the morning. Hotblast doesn’t use much firewood but the firewood must dry. The flue is straight up, through the attic and roof. These large pieces must be air dried for at least a full year, sometimes a couple years. It’s on top of a hill in full breeze and sunlight. Burning firewood is not for everyone. Ever try to burn freshly cut firewood? This large amount of water is not on the outside of the logs, it’s inside, absorbed into the wood fibers. Then properly stack the green firewood and leave the ends exposed to the open air for 6 months to a full year. Some green firewoods are more than half water by weight. Firewood must be cut into short pieces, split and properly stacked to dry. Rain will run down and soak into cut ends while ground moisture will migrate up and soak into spongy inner bark. Firewood must be cut and properly stacked to dry.
It causes more smoke and will coat your flue with creosote. First, you must let the firewood “season”, which allows the moisture to escape. When “green” firewood is burned, the water in the wood must be boiled into steam to get rid of it. Firewood should be cut into 22 inch lengths or shorter depending on your woodstove’s firebox size. Firewood dries mostly from the ends since this is the way that the water travels through the tree normally. Photo at right shows how firewood should look after being properly stacked and allowed to dry for a year or more. Notice the cracks in the ends of each piece. It’s best to split and stack firewood soon after it’s cut. This allows the wood more time to dry. Firewood dumped outside, in a pile will not dry, and will rot. Firewood left in a heap will soon rot and be rendered useless. Here’s a quick drying trick if you’re able to do it. This will give the firewood a good start in drying. How efficient is your wood stove or fireplace? Almost all firewood will provide good heat, some is just better than others. I need to haul it, stack it, dry it, bring it inside and burn it. Using a propane furnace saves all this labor. However, if you enjoy working outside, it’s well worth the savings. Some newer woodstoves are over 80% efficient.
Fireplaces are not efficient at all. This is because a stove is closed and controlled, whereas much of the heat output of an open fire escapes up the chimney rather than into the house.
Many people like to use the masonry chimneys that they already have in their homes. Most of these masonry chimneys were installed for a gas furnace. What s wrong with most masonry chimneys ? Many are old and were not built to present day specs.
Never use any chimney for more than a single stove or furnace.
These outdoor wood stoves are very popular. However, most require a lot of firewood. The biggest reason that they burn a lot of firewood is in the way they burn it. This causes a lot of smoke and heat to exit up thru the flue. So, when the water temp reaches about 180 degrees, the furnace shuts off almost all the air to the firebox. They never seem to have problems with creosote due to the large amount of heat in the chimney. They hold a large amount of firewood and only need to be stoked a couple times a day. The consensus seemed to be that having a wood stove that could also be used for cooking is the ideal situation. Obviously, if you live in the desert with no wood supply, that’s a bit of a challenge. But for the rest of us, it would seem that having a reasonably efficient wood stove in a rural area is smart insurance. So a wood stove seems like a good investment. We’ve used ours to boil water, cook eggs, make toast, and keep big meals warm in cast iron pots. Our old wood stove had a fan that gave up the ghost not long after we moved in. I wanted to replace it with something quiet, and preferably non-electrical. It’s silent, starts turning as soon as it’s sensors reach a certain temperature, and uses no electricity. We also have a hard-wired ceiling fan at the top of our cathedral ceiling, which pushes the warm air back down into the living area and throughout the house.
Obviously, the bigger your house the more you’ll have to think about how the warm air will flow. So we used a plug-in oil heater, which kept the bathroom toasty, but racked up a rather large electrical bill. Plus it didn’t work when the power was out (then again, neither does the ceiling fan). Well, maybe not warm, but at least there are no icicles hanging from the shower head. This seems obvious, but you’d be surprised how many people still have single paned windows and big air spaces around their doors. Especially in old houses, which you’ll likely find on properties you might be considering for your modern homesteading adventure. We live in an 80-plus year old log cabin, so spent quite a bit of energy ensuring all the cracks and crevices were filled with insulation and chinked.
In the meantime, we’ve installed storm windows on all the lower windows. Your situation will be different, though. If you do decide to heat with wood, chances are you’ll be very happy you did.
I are considering what type of house to put on it. Hoping to roll them out over the next 4 weeks or so. But we’ve got a little family, so it works. and it’s only temporary, as we’re planning an addition next spring that will add another 500 square feet or so and two bedrooms. If we were a family of 4, it probably wouldn’t work. An expanded kitchen is on the books for 2012 (or next year if funds allow). It’s definitely an adventure!
I can barely keep up with the cobwebs in our little 700 square feet!
Makes it more and more important to make sure we’re all burning clean!
We’re about 700 sq ft too and work in town so we’re not constantly burning, but it is our main heat source.
This put my mind at ease (it’s our first winter in the cabin). I have been using wood stove heating almost exclusively for close to 3 years now and have almost perfected keeping the house at just the right temp.
Keeping doors open and judicious use of fans has helped keep the rooms all warm but not too hot–even the ones far away from the stove.
Keeping the ash pan changed so there is proper air flow but still keeping a nice bed of ashes in the wood-burning area at all times helps also.
The water was hot enough to use only one or two pots full in a tub of cold water!
I also place water on the stove to help humidify the air. I have read that new regulations were passed recently that greatly restrict the use of wood burning stoves. They ran through the floors as well. It heats the house, the garage, and once you stack it up good you can leave it from a good 7 hours. For anyone who is considering switching to a wood cook stove or strictly a wood stove please check out antiquestoves.us their friendly and always ready to answer any questions or concerns you may have.
Ask the old locals about what the best wood in the area is, and they can possibly even give you tips on where to get some to get you going at first.
But this year, with a new wood stove and better insulation, we’ve only gone through maybe 2 1/2. I love the smell and watching the burning of wood. What is clear to me is that inserts are terribly inefficient. Amazing how much the different wood holds differing amounts of heat. Barbadoes love the place and even go out in the garden often for an hour at a time as feathered feet and a low bum can be a problem my hens return to a straw yard and back into the warmth.
I had the chimney swept and inspected and decided to only use the fireplace in the basement for now. My problem is the fireplace sucks wood like there’s no tomorrow. We prefer not even turning the furnace on and just heating the entire house (its not large) by burning wood. Upstairs gets toasty real quick and downstairs pretty much stays just above freezing (~45 degrees farenheit).
Stacking Wood In Your Masonry Fireplace For A Top Down Burn (Part )
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