Breathable Coatings Ultra Masonry Products
Flat is good at hiding surface imperfections and delivers beautiful color.
The term breathable is everywhere, from nail polish through to clothing. For building physics we class a breathable paint as a material that will allow the water vapour to permeate, travel or transfer through itself.
Many of our coatings are above 90 perm. Trouble is, when masonry is painted with a non-porous synthetic coating, the water and water vapor get trapped inside. Silicate paint can be used on both traditional and modern structures and is perfect for troublesome areas, such as damp basements.
Exceptionally durable: a life expectancy of many years if applied correctly onto a suitable surface.
Now, just because a coating is not breathable does not mean that it is resistant to moisture, and it doesn’t mean that it will stop 100% of moisture.
If you want to reduce moisture with a non-breathable coating, it needs to be approved for moist environments.
Whilst this may offer some short-term relief, water will naturally find its way in (through tiny cracks in the walls for example, as the building moves).
Even if your property has not been built with breathable materials like lime, using a breathable paint can still contribute to a heathier environment.
We get a huge number of enquiries about masonry paint, and whether it is breathable.
Counter intuitive maybe – but old houses need to breathe. If you slop any form of plastic onto an old building, it will not be able to breathe. That starts to cause huge problems with moisture retention in the building fabric. It works great for smoothing rough concrete, cinder block, or other rough masonry surfaces, as it will fill in and help the surface to appear softer and more uniform.
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The product’s one coat application saves time and money over typical two and three coat systems.
The product allows for the removal of graffiti without harming the coating.
Ideal for applications where a low odor, non-yellowing semi-gloss matte appearance is desired on horizontal or vertical concrete masonry, stamped and decorative concrete surfaces.
The product provides good protection from moisture, salts, staining and other harmful elements.
Instead, conventional latex may be your best bet. The first step is to determine why the blisters formed; if there are construction defects or flaws allowing the ingress of moisture, these must be rectified prior to application of the new coating or the problem is going to recur.
My house is painted with a modern masonry paint. Apply paint coats in right angles to each other (i.e. Suitable for all mineral surfaces including lime renders and plasters, cement renders and plasters, stone and brick. Silicate paint can be used on both traditional and modern structures and is perfect for troublesome areas, such as damp basements. Trapping this moisture in the walls with film-forming acrylic paints can cause serious structural and dampness problems. Sd value less than 0.1 m are considered to be highly breathable. Germany of silicate paints lasting 100 years!
This therefore minimises the stresses and damage caused by differential expansion. Flat is good at hiding surface imperfections and delivers beautiful color.
Use only one method — a contradictory specification may result if both methods are used. Delete all text below that is not applicable to the project.
It can also be used on metal, glass, and most painted surfaces.
Architect-approved mock-up/test panels.
Breathable paints are often seen as something that are only suitable for older building, this is not the case. By using a breathable paint internally, you can help regulate the internal environment and air quality. We offer all types of paints for both internal and external applications. It is well known what a strong and stable element silica is and it has been widely used in building due to these attributes.
I will be repairing the building over the next 3 years, replacing some brick, where they have determinate do away and reprinting with hydraulic lime mortar.
I can use that’s ‘clear’ so as to create a bonded layer over the brick surface (and mortar) to protect them from further water and frost damage yet maintaining it to pass the maximum amount of water vapour.
It can also be prone to cracking, these are usually very fine and will show up if you spray water over the wall. A lime wash is usually quite dusty and can be brushed off the wall if rubbed forcefully enough. Lime wash will also change colour when it is wet, it usually goes darker and you can see it dry out. One way of telling the difference is to remove some of the paint from the surface. How do you prepare the wall to remove or paint over existing normal paint finish (eg. I dont know if the plaster is lime or not, is it suitable for covering either way? What advice do you have for bathrooms with very high humidity?
To block the moisture going in with normal bathroom paints or to stay breathable and allow high humidity in? The majority of our internal paints can be applied over existing paint finishes, however a breathable paint is only as good as the surface it is applied too, so the problem could still persist.
Beeck range, we have full performance data and have been supplying these for over 15 years. Bathrooms are always problematic as the humidity is not constant and will always fluctuate. Maxol interior paint will work fine over existing painted surfaces. What would you advise -we don’t want to seal as it as we want the wall to breath. I read somewhere using limewash on sandstone where it’s not been used before can cause deterioration. My house is circa-1600 cob wall thatch house. I can clearly see damp darker blotchy patches over many parts of the wall. The ground floor is totally brick over the cob. Like the other end a window has been placed on the first floor – -and similarly the wall above it is just 2 inches thick.
When humidity conditions are high (on a hot day) a thick sticky ooze runs out of the wall down my windows (presumably some previous paint undercoat sealant system).
All of the house back wall appears to be the original cob. Damp and condensation are a continuous battle. ..but restricted of course to the external walls.
If viewed on the side it appears very shiny (tiny reflective specks) and repels water well. The paint on the bricks is falling off in vast patches being pushed out by the damp mortar. So in short, all the damaged paintwork is at the mortar joints. ..in the brickwork and in the flint base. My thoughts being; concentrate on the lower damp level /install hard mortar & flint chips to seal the ground-level area & prevent rodent attack / wire brush prep the entire black surface (likely i would break into existing paint surface). …
Apologies for the long description, but the more words i put down the more i realised i have been putting this task off for so long due to my quandary !
When cracking appears, water can be driven into the wall and unable to escape. Some walls can be 3 foot thick and the ‘insulation’ for want of a better word is actually soil!
The building is about 400 years old in places. Here the bottom of the wall plaster is missing in small places, revealing old stone which at least lets that bit breathe. In short a breathable paint may buy more time, but chances are that eventually the underlying plaster coating will fail. Outside of the house now needs repainting, as these things tend to do after 4 years. I know we would have to get the existing exterior emulsion removed before using a natural paint, but can such paints be used on modern cement render without causing problems, either to the structure or with the appearance of the paint down the line?
I hope you can maybe give us some advice what to choose. Our workers have put in plasterboard. Our second headache are the exterior window lintels which have to be painted white. In regards to the wood, we do have a couple of products that could work here, however it will depend on the condition of the wood and if any coatings are already in place.
The rendering has been there a long time and there are only two limited cracks at the bottom of the south-facing front wall. As the two areas are small, it might be worth uncovering a sample area to see whats going on underneath.
If you think you may not have enough paint to finish one wall, don’t begin until you receive more paint.
Advantage Exterior Flat Latex Masonry
And, you will never have mold problems.
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Apply using a high quality 1 1/4” nap roller, nylon/polyester brush or airless sprayer (.025″-.029″ spray tip).
A second coat must be applied at the same spread rate as the first.
A third coat may be required to achieve a final dry mil thickness of about 10-15 mils.
First the pressure washing, scraping, sealer and finally the painting. Color fading and chalking will occur naturally over time.
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