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American Exterior Gypsum Sheathing




American  Exterior Gypsum Sheathing. Mortar Joints Method
Gypsum board should be placed so weight is evenly distributed and the floor is not overloaded. The simple solution of painting brick to change their color may have hidden costs down the road. However, it may begin to look a little shabby on the chimney top as it begins to blister or bubble up. The moisture that is being trapped inside the bricks will expand with our normal freeze/thaw cycles. All brick masonry material needs to breathe. With a close examination by peeling back some of those blistered areas, it will reveal some serious brick and mortar damage. Water intrusion will damage interior finishes, further degrade exterior substrate and adversely affect working/living conditions thus, in turn, diminishing the value of the property. Our process starts with a collaborative approach and investigation and then we move on to the proper product selection. The end product is incredible!



www.homebuildingandrepairs.com Click on this link to learn more about new home construction, remodeling and building …Exteriors Plus Masonry Jobs Employment – American Exterior Masonry

American  Exterior Gypsum Sheathing. Mortar Joints Method

This is because the moisture within the chimney is trying to get out, but is being trapped beneath the painted surface. Areas on the chimney today may look perfectly fine, but may be hiding very saturated and weak masonry beneath this painted surface. Older buildings are often in need of constant upkeep to prevent water migration to the interior. We will work closely with you to determine the best time and schedule for your project. We create beautiful outdoor fireplaces. The difference between water-repellent coatings and waterproof coatings is explained, and the purpose of each, the suitability of their application to historic masonry buildings, and the possible consequences of their inappropriate use are discussed.

Was it to cover bad repointing or unmatched repairs?

Consumers love to do business with someone that can admit mistakes and state how they made improvements. Carmen was very helpful and when it came to making minor changes, it was not a problem at all. I spoke with the client over the winter when he told me his dirt sank again. Contractor’s should stand by their work. Our quality of construction is simply unmatched in the remodeling industry. I learned and worked in his business during my early years. We publish all of the reviews we receive: positive and negative alike.


Our outdoor fireplaces are built to impress and are resistant to heat damage.

Exterior Gypsum Sheathing

American Exterior Masonry
We offer a variety of services from deck building to constructing outdoor fireplaces!

Our beautiful and unique fire pits will have you gathered around roasting marshmallows and hanging out!  Our outdoor kitchens and grills will turn your backyard into a beautiful setting for making unforgettable memories with your friends and family!  We only employ carpenters that are masters in their crafts to ensure we build you a unique screened room!  We can help you meet your budget with our financing options too.  Consumers love to do business with someone that can admit mistakes and state how they made improvements. and the advent of forced air heating removed the need for rooms structured around stoves and fireplaces, meaning new shapes abounded. Simple house forms decorated with elaborate spindlework, jigsaw-cut bargeboards, and other decorative trim. Ranch was one of the dominant house forms of the second half of the 20th century. The plan is to put in a patio, maybe 12×20. Make it pretty since door will likely be open a lot. The review contains objectionable language. De-icing salts used near the building that have dissolved can migrate into the masonry. Allowances for dealing with such unknown factors, any of which can be a potential problem, should be included when investigating cleaning methods and materials.

Any cleaning method should be tested before using it on historic masonry. Acidic cleaners can be extremely damaging to acid-sensitive stones, such as marble and limestone, resulting in etching and dissolution of these stones. Some sandstones contain water-soluble minerals and can be eroded by water cleaning. Other building materials also may be affected by the cleaning process. The portions of building elements most vulnerable to deterioration may not be visible, such as embedded ends of iron window bars. The only way to prevent problems in these cases is to study the building construction in detail and evaluate proposed cleaning methods with this information in mind.

Water methods soften the dirt or soiling material and rinse the deposits from the masonry surface. It can be quite effective for cleaning limited areas, but it is expensive and generally not practical for most historic masonry cleaning projects. The rationale for this approach is based on the principle that dirty water or cleaning effluent dripping from cleaning in progress above will leave streaks on a dirty surface but will not streak a clean surface as long as it is kept wet and rinsed frequently.

It is also a good method for removing heavy accumulations of soot, sulfate crusts or gypsum crusts that tend to form in protected areas of a building not regularly washed by rain.

A timed on-off spray is another approach to using this cleaning technique. Soaking is a very slow method—it may take several days or a week—but it is a very gentle method to use on historic masonry. Scrubbing with natural bristle or synthetic bristle brushes—never metal which can abrade the surface and leave metal particles that can stain the masonry—can help in cleaning areas of the masonry that are especially dirty.

Adding a non-ionic detergent and scrubbing with a natural bristle or synthetic bristle brush can facilitate cleaning textured or intricately carved masonry. This is a gentle and effective method for cleaning stone and particularly for acid-sensitive stones. Steam can be especially useful in removing built-up soiling deposits and dried-up plant materials, such as ivy disks and tendrils. It can also be an efficient means of cleaning carved stone details and, because it does not generate a lot of liquid water, it can sometimes be appropriate to use for cleaning interior masonry.

Before beginning a water cleaning project, it is important to make sure that all mortar joints are sound and that the building is watertight.

Some water supplies may contain traces of iron and copper which may cause masonry to discolor. Any cleaning method involving water should never be done in cold weather or if there is any likelihood of frost or freezing because water within the masonry can freeze, causing spalling and cracking.

This is why it is imperative that the cleaning be closely monitored to ensure that the cleaning operators do not raise the pressure or bring the nozzle too close to the masonry in an effort to “speed up” the process.

They can remove dirt, as well as paint and other coatings, metallic and plant stains, and graffiti. Acidic cleaners, of course, should not be used on masonry that is acid sensitive. Because each cleaning situation is unique, dilution rates and dwell times can vary considerably. The masonry surface may be scrubbed lightly with natural or synthetic bristle brushes prior to rinsing. Acid cleaners are applied to the pre-wet masonry which should be kept wet while the acid is allowed to “work”, and then removed with a water wash.

Alkaline cleaning products consist primarily of two ingredients: a non-ionic detergent or surfactant; and an alkali, such as potassium hydroxide or ammonium hydroxide. Two additional steps are required to remove alkaline cleaners after the initial rinse. They are used to remove oil, latex and acrylic paints, and are effective for removing multiple layers of paint. Alkaline cleaners may also remove some acrylic water-repellent coatings. Like water methods, they should not be used in cold weather because of the possibility of freezing. For, this reason, testing the cleaner on an inconspicuous spot on the building is always necessary. While certain acid-based cleaners may be appropriate if used as directed on a particular type of masonry, if left too long or if not adequately rinsed from the masonry they can have a negative effect.

For example, hydrofluoric acid can etch masonry leaving a hazy residue (whitish deposits of silica or calcium fluoride salts) on the surface. While this efflorescence may usually be removed by a second cleaning—although it is likely to be expensive and time-consuming—hydrofluoric acid can also leave calcium fluoride salts or a colloidal silica deposit on masonry which may be impossible to remove.

Although alkaline cleaners will not etch a masonry surface as acids can, they are caustic and can burn the surface. In addition, alkaline cleaners can deposit potentially damaging salts in the masonry which can be difficult to rinse thoroughly. A poultice consists of an absorbent material or clay powder (such as kaolin or fullerís earth, or even shredded paper or paper towels), mixed with a liquid (a solvent or other remover) to form a paste which is applied to the stain.

The poultice is kept moist and left on the stain as long as necessary for it to draw the stain out of the masonry.

Pre-mixed poultices are also available as a paste or in powder form needing only the addition of the appropriate liquid. The masonry must be pre-wet before applying an alkaline cleaning agent, but not when using a solvent. Once the stain has been removed, the masonry must be rinsed thoroughly. Abrasive cleaning methods are just that—abrasive. Since the abrasives do not differentiate between the dirt and the masonry, they can also remove the outer surface of the masonry at the same time, and result in permanently damaging the masonry.

Brick and architectural terra cotta are fired products which have a smooth, glazed surface which can be removed by abrasive blasting or grinding. Abrasive cleaning processes can also increase the likelihood of subsurface cracking of the masonry. Mortar joints, especially those with lime mortar, also can be eroded by abrasive or mechanical cleaning. In some cases, the damage may be visual, such as loss of joint detail or increased joint shadows. Erosion of the mortar joints may also permit increased water penetration, which will likely necessitate repointing. Sandblasting has permanently damaged this brick wall. Although abrasive blasting is not an appropriate method of cleaning historic masonry, it can be safely used to clean some materials. Some patented abrasive cleaning processes—one dry, one wet—use finely-ground glass powder intended to “erase” or remove dirt and surface soiling only, but not paint or stains.

However, it should not be used on historic masonry which it can easily abrade and can permanently “etch” the graffiti into the stone; it can also leave potentially damaging salts in the stone which cannot be removed.

Most of these abrasive grits may be used either dry or wet, although dry grit tends to be used more frequently. This is also too abrasive to be used on most historic masonry, but it may have practical application for removing mastics or asphaltic coatings from some substrates.

Some of these processes are promoted as being more environmentally safe and not damaging to historic masonry buildings. The fact that they are essentially abrasive treatments must always be taken into consideration when planning a masonry cleaning project. In general, abrasive methods should not be used to clean historic masonry buildings. But, abrasive cleaning should never be used on an entire building. Like abrasive blasting, grinders and disks do not really clean masonry but instead grind away and abrasively remove and, thus, damage the masonry surface itself rather than remove just the soiling material.

Water of slightly higher pressure or with a non-ionic detergent additive also may be effective. It is worth repeating that these methods should always be tested prior to considering harsher methods; they are safer for the building and the environment, often safer for the applicator, and relatively inexpensive.

The level of cleanliness desired also should be determined prior to selection of a cleaning method. When undertaking a cleaning project, it is important to be aware that some stains simply may not be removable. It may be wise, therefore, to agree upon a slightly lower level of cleanliness that will serve as the standard for the cleaning project.

It is preferable to conduct the test in an inconspicuous location on the building so that it will not be obvious if the test is not successful.

A test area may be quite small to begin, sometimes as small as six square inches, and gradually may be increased in size as the most appropriate methods and cleaning agents are determined.

Eventually the test area may be expanded to a square yard or more, and it should include several masonry units and mortar joints. Each material and different finish should be tested separately. The results of the tests may indicate that several methods of cleaning should be used on a single building. When feasible, test areas should be allowed to weather for an extended period of time prior to final evaluation. If this is not possible, the test patch should weather for at least a month or two. The successfully cleaned test patch should be protected as it will serve as a standard against which the entire cleaning project will be measured.

A plan must be provided for environmentally safe removal and disposal of the cleaning materials and the rinsing effluent before beginning the cleaning project.

Some alkaline and acidic cleaners can be neutralized so that they can be safely discharged into storm sewers. Some patented cleaning systems have developed special equipment to facilitate the containment and later disposal of cleaning waste. Other health and safety concerns have created additional cleaning challenges, such as lead paint removal, which is likely to require special removal and disposal techniques.

Cleaning can also cause damage to non-masonry materials on a building, including glass, metal and wood. They should be covered with plastic or polyethylene, or a masking agent that is applied as a liquid which dries to form a thin protective film on glass, and is easily peeled off after the cleaning is finished.

Similarly, airborne dust can enter surrounding buildings, and excess water can collect in nearby yards and basements. Protective clothing, respirators, hearing and face shields, and gloves must be provided to workers to be worn at all times. Abrasive and mechanical methods produce dust which can pose a serious health hazard, particularly if the abrasive or the masonry contains silica. Water-repellent coatings—often referred to incorrectly as “sealers”, but which do not or should not “seal”—are intended to keep liquid water from penetrating the surface but to allow water vapor to enter and leave, or pass through, the surface of the masonry.

Water-repellent coatings are generally transparent, or clear, although once applied some may darken or discolor certain types of masonry while others may give it a glossy or shiny appearance.

Waterproof coatings seal the surface from liquid water and from water vapor. Unlike earlier water-repellent coatings which tended to form a “film” on the masonry surface, modern water-repellent coatings actually penetrate into the masonry substrate slightly and, generally, are almost invisible if properly applied to the masonry.

They are also more vapor permeable than the old coatings, yet they still reduce the vapor permeability of the masonry. Once inside the wall, water vapor can condense at cold spots producing liquid water which, unlike water vapor, cannot escape through a water-repellent coating.

Although modern water-repellents may penetrate slightly beneath the masonry surface, instead of just “sitting” on top of it, they do not perform the same function as a consolidant which is to “consolidate” and replace lost binder to strengthen deteriorating masonry.

Even after many years of laboratory study and testing, few consolidants have proven very effective. They kept me informed of the progress and the finished product is superb. The end product is incredible!

The crew was courteous, professional and did an outstanding job!

They arrived on time, worked hard and finished quickly. Daniel and his team laid my pavers in record time, turning out a flawless product. I was impressed throughout the entire process. They worked together like a well-oiled machine, very professionally, in an efficient and timely manner, and the result is beautiful!

Hugo, to facilitate the repair and no charge to us. My biggest problem was the contractors building my patio used a different construction process than the one described to me by the salesmen and no one notify me of the change.

Also, the construction crew did a lot of damage to my lawn. The salesman led me to believe the damage would be as extensive. Carmen was very helpful and when it came to making minor changes, it was not a problem at all. Nate is the primary salesman who sits down with clients to decide on the scope of the project and negotiate cost. Carmen later declined to do so, saying it wasn’t in the contract. I was told that the project schedule was on time. I insisted that we agreed on vinyl railing in the initial discussion, it fell in deaf ears. He says when the deck is done, you wont even notice. Exterioirs was not the cheapest, but we’re really glad we chose them!

The workers were professional, on time and pleasant to have around. So much, that we had them do more than we had originally planned. They also installed drain lines for the fire pit and down spout. The owner is very involved in the work and was concerned about my satisfaction. After approval, we were given a start date. Second, the lead builder that was actually doing the work – would sometimes just not show up. The project manager had no idea where he was. We had to keep a close eye on everything, and made sure he fixed all his mistakes. He also was messy and left cut up materials and cigarette butts all over our yard. The project consisted of tearing up the old concrete walkway, reforming a new concrete base, and forming natural stone slab over the base. Their estimate was not the least expensive but they certainly not the most expensive. Engineering beam that would take weeks to arrive. I can be there to ensure everything goes well. We got several estimates to replace our front porch and front walk with flagstone. Again, we were truly happy with the final product and would not hesitate to use them again on future projects. Super responsive, reasonable, and did excellent work.


Moisture Management In Residential Construction Series Brick Installation Drainage Cavity Wall

This video demonstrates recommendations for installing brick cladding with a drainage cavity wall.




Category: General Masonry, Masonry Cleaning, Masonry Paint, Masonry Repair
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